SIDRAP, Indonesia (RNS) The Buginese people (or Bugis) form the largest ethnic group in South Sulawesi, Indonesia. The predominantly Muslim community recognizes and respects five separate genders including trans women, (calabai), trans men (calalai), and gender transcendent individuals (bissu). According to tradition, calabais are often booked months in advance to manage all wedding related activities, from decorations to costumes and makeup.
In former times, “You couldn’t have a ceremony without the help and management of the calabai. We were the right hand of the king when it came to ceremonies,” said Haji Idha, a calabai community leader in South Sulawesi. Many Buginese weddings still make use of calabai services.
Religion News Service photos by Alexandra Radu
Click on any photo below to view a slideshow documenting Indonesia’s transgender Buginese community. Some individuals photographed asked that their full names not be used.
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- Ibu Haji Idha, a devout Muslim and calabai community leader in South Sulawesi, prays at her local mosque in Makassar, South Sulawesi on August 4, 2015. After performing hajj to Mecca in 1996, she decided that wearing women’s clothing was inappropriate and returned to male dress. She nevertheless still identifies as a woman and likes to be called “Ibu,” which means “Madam” in Indonesian. She believes that all people, regardless of gender identity or sexual orientation, should be allowed to practice their faith freely as long as they show proper respect towards religion. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- Ibu Haji Idha consults a client on the upcoming wedding of her daughter, in Makassar, South Sulawesi on August 4, 2015. Calabais are often booked months in advance to manage all wedding related activities, from decorations to costumes and makeup. In former times only royals and noblemen could hold such lavish ceremonies. Today, depending on families’ budgets, “anybody can be king, at least for one day,” Ibu Haji Idha said. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- Ibu Haji Hasna (background) is a successful calabai businesswoman in Sidrap, South Sulawesi. She started her beauty salon and wedding planning company in 1976 and has won numerous regional and national awards in traditional Buginese wedding makeup competitions. Nowadays, Ibu Haji Hasna often prefers to supervise her employees, who she selects from among students attending the free traditional Buginese makeup classes she has been organizing in cooperation with local government since 2009. Photo taken on July 31st, 2015. Religion News Service by Alexandra Radu
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- Ibu Haji Hasna, left, and one of her employees scope out the site of an upcoming wedding and discuss decorations in Sidrap, South Sulawesi on July 31, 2015. Buginese weddings are normally organized in lavish tents near the bride’s family home. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- Ibu Haji Hasna steps in to apply the bride’s makeup on her own, fulfilling a traditional calabai role, in Sidrap, South Sulawesi on July 31, 2015. She fasts before appointments and prays throughout, believing that doing so will make the bride more beautiful and give her a special aura for the wedding. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- Ibu Haji Hasna dons a headscarf to show respect for Muslim wedding guests, many of whom are her friends and former clients, in Sidrap, South Sulawesi, on July 31st, 2015. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- Once the wedding has started, Ibu Haji Hasna discretely observes from the sidelines to make sure everything goes according to plan before returning home, in Sidrap, South Sulawesi, on July 31st, 2015. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- Wanda is a self-taught makeup artist in Sidrap, South Sulawesi, who opened her beauty salon three years ago. Her two employees are transgender women, a hiring decision she made on the belief that clients prefer calabais to apply their makeup and style their hair. Wanda hopes to open her own wedding planning business in the near future. Photo taken July 30th, 2015. Religion New Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- Wanda applies bridal makeup to Fitri, one of her clients, in Sidrap, South Sulawesi, on July 30th, 2015. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- Eka (center), one of Wanda’s employees, applies makeup to one of Fitri’s friends. Eka has been working as a makeup artist for 10 years. Photo taken in Sidrap, South Sulawesi, July 30th, 2015. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- After finishing work, Eka chats with Ilha, her former romantic partner who remains a friend, in Sidrap, South Sulawesi, on July 30th, 2015. In the Buginese tradition, calabai women can partner with cisgender men for a length of time agreed by both parties. After that period, the calabai must allow her partner to marry a cisgender woman and sponsor his wedding party, after which the calabai can find another partner. Allowing her partner to marry a cisgender woman is considered a testament to the calabai’s moral strength. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- Wanda meets her mother to attend Friday prayer with the family. Until returning from a pilgrimage to Mecca, Wanda sported long hair and wore women’s clothes. She decided to cut her hair and switch to men’s clothes upon returning to Indonesia but still identifies as a woman. Photo taken in Sidrap, South Sulawesi, July 31st 2015. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- JK, far left, is a calalai, a transgender man in Makassar, South Sulawesi. Unlike the calabai, the calalai do not have specific roles in Buginese society but are similarly accepted and integrated in the community. JK buys food from a street vendor on August 4, 2015, because he does not enjoy cooking. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- JK, center, his girlfriend Ulhy and their friend Nurul relax outside of Nurul’s house in Makassar, South Sulawesi, on August 3rd, 2015. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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- JK, second from right, and Ulhy visit JK’s family in Makassar, South Sulawesi, on August 4th, 2015. Religion News Service photo by Alexandra Radu
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